The face behind one of the world’s last anonymous food critics

The face behind one of the world’s last anonymous food critics
Georgie Atkins

After more than two decades of fiercely guarding her anonymity, Besha Rodell – The Age and Good Weekend’s chief restaurant critic – has stepped into the spotlight with the release of her debut book, Hunger Like a Thirst.

Born in Australia before moving to the United States as a teenager, the Carlton resident’s path to food criticism was shaped by both hardship and resilience.

Raised on food stamps, she experienced the realities of financial hardship from an early age.

Through the tough times, dining out was a rare and treasured escape for Besha – a hard-earned luxury that ignited a lifelong passion for food and hospitality.

“I grew up not being able to afford any of the places I was writing about,” she said.

“It was a luxury I gave myself – the one thing I’d splurge on. You have to have eaten so widely [to be a food critic], and it's really hard to do that without being extremely wealthy.”

Hunger Like a Thirst marks a pivotal turning point in Besha’s career, not only revealing the face behind one of Australia’s most respected – and among the world’s last anonymous – food critics, but also unveiling a powerful new dimension of her work.

The book delves into the complex intersections of class, family, identity, and the emotional toll of criticism itself.

She admits that the decision to come forward wasn’t easy, but it felt necessary.

“There was a tipping point. After all these years, it just felt like time,” Besha said.

“I’ve been working on this book in various forms for close to eight years. It finally came together during the pandemic, when I had the time and space to focus. And once it was out in the world, there was no point hiding anymore.”

While maintaining anonymity afforded Besha certain freedoms in her work, the dedication to preserve it inevitably seeped into her personal life.

“I avoided cameras at weddings, ducked out of school events – it was awkward, and it was also kind of absurd,” she said.

Besha doesn’t disagree that some of her efforts to protect her identity bordered on over-the-top or even “self-important” – she’s often the first to admit it.

“We were toying with the idea of doing disguises at events, and I just couldn’t live with it,” she told Inner City News.

“It’s too self-important, it’s too gimmicky. It was kind of like the angel and devil on my shoulder – I just couldn’t keep up the act anymore, it felt like I’d be living a lie.”

Throughout Hunger Like a Thirst, Besha offers unflinching honesty, candidly exploring her coming-of-age and the history of restaurant criticism.

“The book digs deep into parts of my life I haven’t really talked about before. It’s about more than just food – it’s about who I am and where I come from,” she said.


There’s a lot of me in those pages – my fears, my struggles, and the moments that shaped me. It was scary to put something so personal out there, but I knew it was time. I wanted to be honest.

Besha’s journey into food criticism was built on a foundation of hands-on experience.

Prior to her first published review, she worked as a waitress, bartender, and line cook – a background that continues to inform her perspective and approach to criticism.

“That experience never leaves you, it makes you pay attention to the people behind the food,” she said.

While critics are often perceived as harsh or intent on takedowns, Besha’s work is driven by a different purpose.

“If I’m reviewing someone that’s put heart in it, I try to be like a consultant – say what could be better, then they can take it or leave it,” she said.

“If a menu is out of balance, or the pacing is weird, I say so – not to be cruel, but because it matters. If nobody tells them these are the weak spots, how are they going to grow? I’m not here to get people – I’m trying to help.”

With the book now out in the U.S. and a tour under way, Hunger Like a Thirst’s Australian release is set for June 17.

Besha is embracing this new chapter, though she will continue to do what she has always loved.

“I’ll never stop being a critic,” she told Inner City News.

“But writing this book gave me another outlet. It allowed me to dig deeper – into the history of dining, the politics of taste, and why any of it matters.”

When asked about the public reaction to finally revealing her identity, Besha shrugged.

“Some people online were like, ‘who cares?’ And honestly, I agree with them,” she said.

“I’m just going to keep writing and reviewing. That’s what matters to me.”

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